DramStoryWhere whisky adventures beginArdbeg rewards the walk. Take the Three Distilleries Pathway out from Port Ellen — three miles, off-road almost the whole way, with the sea on one side — and stop at The Old Kiln Cafe along the way, right on the distillery's own pier, looking straight out at the Atlantic. At Ardbeg itself, the Classic Ardbeg Tour takes you from malting through to the stills, with a guided tasting of three core-range drams as you go — book ahead, this one fills up. If you have the energy (or you're driving) and you have time to spare, it's worth continuing a couple more miles to Kildalton Cross, standing beside the roofless ruins of Kildalton Chapel at the end of the road — about as far from anywhere as this coast gets. From Kildalton's own car park, a quiet mile or so on foot through Ardmore House's woodland leads down to Port Mòr, a hidden shore worth the detour for anyone not ready to turn back yet.