“Islay's longest beach — and rare among its beaches for being one you can actually swim at.”
The beach runs on almost further than you can see, dunes rising on one side and the Atlantic rolling in flat and even on the other. Walk it properly — an hour, two, as far as you want — and the crowds thin to nothing within a few hundred yards of any access point. Further south the beach narrows past Kintra towards the Oa, with the whole sweep of the Rinns visible across the water. Come for sunset in winter and it's easy to see why this is the one Islay beach locals actually bring their kids to swim at.
Willie Campbell laid out Machrie Golf Links in these dunes in just two days in 1891, reportedly concluding, "This place was made for gowf." The course became notoriously difficult almost immediately — laid across the dunes rather than alongside them, with as many as seventeen blind shots — and in 1901 it hosted a challenge match between the "Great Triumvirate" of Harry Vardon, JH Taylor and James Braid, three men who between them won sixteen Open Championships, playing for a purse of £100 reputed to be the largest in golf at the time. The course still runs along part of the Big Strand today; its seventh hole plays parallel to the beach itself.
This stretch of coast has recorded eider ducks, Arctic terns fishing just offshore, gannets diving further out, and the occasional red-throated diver — a different character from the machair coastline further north, reflecting the open, estuarial setting where the River Laggan meets the sea.
Unlike the west-coast "drowning beaches" further north, the Big Strand is genuinely one of Islay's safer beaches for swimming — locals regularly bring children here. That's not a blank guarantee, though: like any exposed beach break, currents can shift with the tide, so it's still worth checking conditions and not swimming alone. The River Laggan crosses the sand at the north end and shouldn't be forded after heavy rain. Check live tide times →