Laphroaig and Lagavulin sit a couple of miles apart on the Three Distilleries Pathway out of Port Ellen, and taste further apart than that — Laphroaig's tar-and-iodine, medicinal edge against Lagavulin's smoke, sea salt and dried fruit, closer to lapsang souchong tea than a bonfire. The Laphroaig Experience runs at ten, walking the historic floor maltings before a tutored tasting of three core-range drams — arrive fifteen minutes early, and note the route includes stairs. That leaves the middle of the day free for the walk on to Lagavulin — a particularly beautiful, peaceful stretch, mostly flat between fields and shore, and sealed the whole way — and lunch somewhere along it before the one o'clock Classic Distillery Tour, which opens with a pour of the 16 Year Old in its own home and moves through a further three drams, including one poured nowhere else but here. Two distilleries, one day, no bus timetable to plan around.