Give the whole day to Bowmore — there's no need to rush. Start at MacTaggart Leisure Centre, Islay's only pool, warmed by heat piped over from the distillery next door. Cross the road to Bowmore itself for the Essence of Islay Tasting — ninety unhurried minutes through four of the distillery's more exclusive expressions, talked through by someone who can explain exactly why they taste the way they do, before it moves along the harbour to the Harbour Inn's private bar for a plate of local seafood alongside the last of the drams. It's a proper sit-down, not a rush between stops — book ahead. Once you're back on your feet, step into Round Church of Bowmore, built round, so the story goes, so the devil would have nowhere to hide, then finish with a wander down the high street's independent shops before the light goes, and see in the evening at the local pub that most takes your eye.